If you’re looking for mountains, rivers, bonfires and adventure, Rishikesh is it. With the Ganga flowing right through the mountains, and rapids that are possibly the best in the world, white water rafting is the perfect adventure break in north India. About 6 hours drive away from Delhi, this proved to be a comfortable 3 day weekend. We wanted to end our hectic weekend with a bit of luxury, and spending the day at the beautiful 100 acre plot of Ananda just 2 hours away was a perfect end.
TO DO: Raft, raft, raft, cross the Laxman Jhula, visit the German Bakery, spend time buying artifacts from the market place.
Rafting: If you love the water and don’t mind being tossed around a bit, rafting is for you. You don’t need to be a pro or a trained rafter to enjoy these rapids, most guides are good enough to guide you through it, and you won’t be left alone with a raft anyway. Rafting’s a group sport and rafts need a certain amount of weight, so it’s the best holiday to go on with 6-8 close friends. The basics are simple, row with strength, follow your guide’s orders, if you’re willing to enjoy the cold water, jump right in when asked, and get a warm treat when you need it the most – at the end of your ride.
The options available are 36km, 24km, 16km and 9 km. All have the same end point. The 36km is usually for people who have rafted many times before – given that it starts quite high up, and the raft will most likely overturn once. The others can be done by novices, but it is recommended to start with either 16km or 9km. We did 16km on the first day and followed it up with the 24 km the next. Our experience started with our campsite booking the 16 km ride for us, and us driving down to the city centre where all the tour centers were. Unfortunately we spent about 2 hours waiting at the store more rafters to join us, since we were just 2 of us traveling. In spite of advance bookings, getting a 16km or 24km ride is difficult, because most people just try out the 9km. Once we had our fellow rafters organized, we were driven to a pretty little river bank – Shivpuri which had a number of camping tents all over. The guide gave us instructions and we put on lifejackets and helmets- both of which we did not take off for the next 3 hours. Rafting itself was tons of fun, and not very scary. The rapids are best earlier on in the day, because the river is most full at this time. A couple of rafters fell off (in completely safe areas), the rest of us jumped out when asked. We just made sure that we jumped out when the rapids allowed us to, and when we did, we held on to the rope at the side of the raft. Breaking away from the raft or group is not advisable- the rocks and rapids can throw you any which way. Towards the end of our freezing ride we stopped by at a rocky bank, where we could continue the adventure and jump off a high rock – ‘the cliff jump’ or pamper ourselves with some warm tea or Maggi cooked and sold on little kerosene burners.
Every rapid has an apt name defined by its character, which the guides would tell us as we passed. My favourite was ‘3 Blind Mice’ and ‘Body Surfing’ on the 24km ride, and ‘Roller Coaster’ and ‘Golf Course’ on the 16km. The rafts had dry bags, so we carried a camera and some cash, but only used it during our pit-stop. Where you sit on the raft determines whether you will fall off or not, so choose wisely. The front two in the raft are always strong rowers, and also the most likely to fall right off. Not to worry though, the guides are well equipped to bring you back on board as long as you follow instructions. We couldn’t figure out the ideal clothes for getting wet and yet staying warm, but as first timers a few useful things we figured were needed along the way were:
–Tolerance for very cold water (besides the water splashing on you, jumping in and clinging on to the side of the raft is fun)
– A pair of river shoes- perhaps Crocs which cover your feet but can get wet (slippers will fall right off and sneakers will get soaked through and through)
– Easy to get wet clothes – if it’s the winter definitely buy/rent a body suit – the only way to bare the water, and in the warmer months – a swimsuit and a tee would be perfect.
– Knowledge of where to book your raft from (the main street has a tour operator every 2 shops, and all are certified)
TO GO: Rafting is on pretty much throughout the year except for a break during the monsoon in July, August and September. Most tourists choose summer months between March-June. At this time campsites, hotels, and even rafts are always full, so advance booking is required. November to Feb are very cold, and even the rafting organizers will give you wet-suits to raft then. We were lucky to choose October- the water of course is cold throughout, but we had warm days and cold bonfire nights.
TO STAY: Under the stars and moon, right by the river is the perfect place to stay. Campsites with ready tents line the Ganga. Of course you have to be willing to manage with makeshift toilets. Since we were looking for an in-between option –luxury camping – with proper rooms and bathrooms, but right by a river bank, we chose Rainbow Camp which was right on one of Ganga’s tributaries. If even luxury camping is not your scene, there are enough hotels around Rishikesh to choose from.
TO REACH: After much contemplation, we rented a car for all 3 days. Our original plan was to go by train, which we are glad we didn’t because the campsites are all far from the main city, and a car is necessary for the up and down travel. In case booking a car is not feasible, some of the camps offer a car pick up and drop- this can be negotiated in advance
TO SPEND: Depending on staying arrangements- you can get a holiday in any budget in Rishikesh. We spent about 250 USD on a car for all 3 days which included fuel and lodging for the driver (from Delhi), and 120 USD per person for 2 nights.
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